The Complete Hermès Colour Code Guide: The Collector’s Brown Palette
When it comes to luxury, Hermès has a language all its own: colour. In our last guide, we explored the vibrant world of Hermès Pinks. Now, we’re diving into the shades that are the true foundation of the brand’s heritage: the timeless and sophisticated Hermès browns.
For a true collector, the range of Hermès browns tells the story of the brand, from its equestrian history to its modern classics. This guide is your key to understanding that story, focused on the rich and versatile world of Hermès browns.
The Hermès Colour System
The secret to keeping all these colours straight is the Hermès colour code. Every shade the brand has ever made is given a unique code of letters and numbers. This is what allows experts and collectors to tell the difference between two similar shades, like the iconic warm tan of Gold (06) and the perfect grey-beige of Étoupe (18).
Here’s a key tip for any collector: the colour code isn’t actually stamped on the bag. You’ll only find the official code on the original sales receipt. That’s why having a “full set” (the bag with its box and receipt) is so important for a pre-owned piece, because the receipt proves its exact colour and history, which adds to its value.
Decoding the Hermès Browns: A Shade-by-Shade Guide
Now that you know the basics of the colour code, let’s explore the shades. The following guide breaks down the most important colours in the Hermès brown family. We’ll cover their production history, how they look on different leathers, and which skintones they complement best.
Please note: This guide is based on public data and our own research. Hermès does not typically disclose the official debut years of its leather colour codes. As a result, the timelines provided are based on their earliest known and documented appearances. The appearance of any colour can also change with the lighting and leather, and the skintone tips are a friendly suggestion. Your personal taste is what matters most!
Y9/06 – Doré
Vintage; return 2024 to commemorate Paris Olympics
Description: Rich honey-camel
Leathers:
Chevre
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm–neutral
Undertone: Gold caramel
Complements: Warm to olive
0M – Chai
2022
Description: Spiced beige with golden warmth
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Swift, Madame, Evercolor, Chevre, Exotic (Alligator, Ostrich)
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Gold beige
Complements: Olive to neutral
16 – Taupe
By 2006–2007
Description: Balanced greige
Leathers:
Clemence, Togo
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral
Undertone: Grey brown
Complements: Cool-neutral, fair to deep
17 – Ficelle
By 2007; possibly earlier
Description: A light warm beige with subtle yellow undertones
Leathers:
Exotic (Lizard/Alligator)
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Light neutral
Undertone: Beige
Complements: Fair to light warm/neutral
18 – Étoupe
By 2004
Description: Between grey and taupe with soft earthy depth
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Epsom, Evercolor, Swift, Negonda, Chevre
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral–cool
Undertone: Grey brown
Complements: Neutral to cool complexions
19 – Mousse
By 2006
Description: Soft twine grey, delicate tone
Leathers:
Ostrich, Canvas
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral
Undertone: Grey brown
Complements: Light to medium neutral skin
1A – Paille
By 2007; possibly earlier
Description: Warm straw beige, quiet neutral
Leathers:
Tadelakt, Swift, Alligator, Crocodile
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Beige
Complements: Warm, light, or olive complexions
1B – Ombre
By 2007
Description: Warm grey, subtle depth
Leathers:
Lizard (exotic gradient)
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Beige grey
Complements: Neutral to warm
1C – Poussière
By 2007; return 2024
Description: Dusty rose-beige, refined look
Leathers:
Alligator, Crocodile, Doblis Suede, Tadelakt
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral-cool
Undertone: Beige rose
Complements: Cool-neutral, fair
1F – Argile
By 2012
Description: Clay brown, warm and grounded
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Swift
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown beige
Complements: Warm or olive complexions
1G – Maïs
By 2007
Description: Buttery yellow beige, soft glow
Leathers:
Alligator
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Yellow beige
Complements: Warm or olive
1H – Toffee
By Jan 2007; possibly earlier
Description: Deep caramel, warm and smooth
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Epsom, Evercolor, Swift
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown caramel
Complements: Warm-neutral or olive
1L – Beige Sable
By Jan 2007; possibly earlier
Description: Sandy beige, soft and natural
Leathers:
Clemence, Togo, Swift
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Beige brown
Complements: Warm or neutral
2C – Curry
By 2004
Description: Golden brown, rich and spicy
Leathers:
Clemence
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Yellow brown
Complements: Warm or olive
2E – Cannelle
By 2006
Description: Cinnamon brown, deep warmth
Leathers:
Togo
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm or olive complexions
2H – Kraft
By 2006–2007; return 2013
Description: Earthy brown, rich texture
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Chevre, Alligator
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm/olive
2J – Quebracho
By Jan 2007
Description: Nut-brown, bold and rich
Leathers:
Chevre
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm or neutral
3A – Grège Pâle
By early 2007
Description: Pale grey-beige, airy tone
Leathers:
Clemence
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Cool-neutral
Undertone: Grey beige
Complements: Fair to neutral
3B – Cornaline
by early 2000
Description: Warm red-brown, like cinnamon
Leathers:
Agneau
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Red brown
Complements: Warm or olive complexions
3C – Parchemin
1960s (heritage color)
Description: Subtle beige with a soft ivory warmth
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Ostrich
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral
Undertone: Beige
Complements: Neutral to warm
3G – Alezan
Circa 1997–1998; return in 2021
Description: Chestnut brown, rich and vivid
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Swift
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Brown orange
Complements: Warm or olive
3S – Macassar
By 2005–2006
Description: Deep espresso brown, nearly black
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Crocodile, Alligator
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm to neutral
3U – Tourbe / Turf Brown
By 2007
Description: Cool brown-grey, misty tone
Leathers:
Canvas, Clemence, Togo
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral
Undertone: Grey brown
Complements: Neutral to cool
24 – Tabac Camel
By 2008
Description: Camel brown, light tobacco, rustic and soft
Leathers:
Clemence, Ostrich, Courchevel
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm/olive
27 – Naturel
By 2007
Description: Natural medium tan, untreated look
Leathers:
Vache, Chevre, Ardennes, Crocodile
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown beige
Complements: Neutral to warm
28 – Caramel
By 2007
Description: Light golden and creamy caramel
Leathers:
Togo, Chevre
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Gold brown
Complements: Warm or olive
30 – Noisette
By 2007
Description: Soft hazelnut brown with pink tint
Leathers:
Exotic (Alligator, Ostrich), Box calf, Ardennes
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral-cool
Undertone: Brown pink
Complements: Cool-neutral, medium skin
32 – Etrusque
By 2007
Description: Terracotta brown, warm red
Leathers:
Exotic (Alligator, Crocodile, Lizard, Ostrich), Clemence, Chevre
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Red brown
Complements: Warm/olive
33 – Miel
By 2007
Description: Honey amber radiant brown
Leathers:
Crocodile
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm-neutral to olive
34 – Fauve
By 2006–2007 (renamed from Natural Barenia)
Description: Rustic brown Barenia, smooth with patina
Leathers:
Barenia (smooth), Barenia Faubourg, Alligator
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown gold
Complements: Warm or olive
35 – Cognac
By 2007
Description: Light warm brown, golden undertone
Leathers:
Ostrich
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm and olive
36 – Brique
Circa 2002
Description: Bold brick-brown, warm tone
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Epsom, Evercolor, Swift, Box calf
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Red brown
Complements: Warm or olive
37 – Gold
1990s
Description: Rich caramel, Golden warm brown
Leathers:
Clemence, Togo, Epsom, Courchevel, Ever calf, Evercolor, Swift
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm to olive
41 – Havanne
likely early 2000s
Description: Coffee brown, soft and classic
Leathers:
Ardennes, Box calf, Courchevel, Ever calf, Gulliver, Exotic
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm/neutral
44 – Moka
Mid-2000s
Description: Mocha brown, Dark brown with subtle purple
Leathers:
Madame, Swift, Butler
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral-cool
Undertone: Brown purple
Complements: Neutral to cool
45 – Marron Foncé
Mid-2000s
Description: Dark brown with plum hint
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Exotic
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-cool
Undertone: Brown red
Complements: Neutral to warm
46 – Ébène
Early 2000s
Description: Cool dark brown, nearly black
Leathers:
Clemence, Togo, Barenia, Chevre, Exotic
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Cool-neutral
Undertone: Brown grey
Complements: Cool or neutral
47 – Chocolat
Mid-2000s
Description: Rich chocolate, well-balanced
Leathers:
Clemence, Togo
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm-neutral
48 – Biscuit
By 2008; return in 2021
Description: Light beige-tan
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence, Epsom, Swift
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Beige
Complements: Warm to neutral
48 – Cocoan
By 2007
Description: Maroon-brown, deep and rich
Leathers:
Exotic, Clemence
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Maroon brown
Complements: Warm/olive
4A – Café
By 2007
Description: Dark coffee
Leathers:
Clemence
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral-cool
Undertone: Brown black
Complements: Cool-neutral
4C – Écorce
By 2007
Description: Bark brown, earthy dark tone
Leathers:
Togo, Epsom, Evercolor
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown red
Complements: Warm-neutral
4D – Terre
By 2007
Description: Natural earth brown
Leathers:
Fjord, Ardennes
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Brown red
Complements: Warm
4E – Sienne
By 2007
Description: Sienna brown, terracotta hue
Leathers:
Togo, Epsom, Evercolor
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Brown orange
Complements: Warm
4G – Brûlé
By 2007
Description: Toasted brown, deep warmth
Leathers:
Togo, Epsom, Sombrero
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm/neutral
4H – Cacao
By 2007
Description: Chocolate-brown with cocoa depth
Leathers:
Togo, Sombrero, Clemence, Crocodile
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown
Complements: Warm-neutral
4I – Marron d’Inde
By 2007
Description: Brown with red tones, with subtle warmth
Leathers:
Fjord, Negonda, Swift, Alligator, Clemence
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral
Undertone: Brown red
Complements: Neutral
4L – Cigare
By 2007
Description: Cigar brown, rustic tone
Leathers:
Togo, Grain d’H, Sombrero
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral-warm
Undertone: Brown grey
Complements: Neutral to warm
4V – Rouille
By 2007
Description: Rustic brown, bold and bright
Leathers:
Clemence, Alligator, Crocodile,
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Orange brown
Complements: Warm or olive
6C – Cuivre
By 2007
Description: Copper brown, with sheen
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown orange
Complements: Warm/olive
6T – Toundra
By 2007
Description: Taupe-grey, soft and muted, green hint
Leathers:
Togo, Negonda
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Neutral-cool
Undertone: Grey brown
Complements: Neutral to cool
P8 – Kaki
By 2007
Description: Olive-brown, dusty and warm
Leathers:
Clemence, Togo
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Green brown
Complements: Warm/olive
S2 – Trench
By 2007
Description: Pale brown, timeless shade
Leathers:
Togo, Clemence
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown beige
Complements: Warm-neutral
94 – Terre Cuite
By 2007
Description: Terracotta
Leathers:
Ostrich
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Red brown
Complements: Warm
D0/1L – Beige de Weimar
2019
Description: Light beige, soft glow
Leathers:
Clemence, Togo
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Beige
Complements: Warm/olive
M1 – Oregano
Early 2000s
Description: Olive brown, earthy neutral
Leathers:
Exotic, Clemence
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm
Undertone: Green brown
Complements: Warm/olive complexions
R1 – Terre Battue
No documented debut
Description: Dustry clay brown, muted depth
Leathers:
Epsom, Togo
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Brown red
Complements: Warm/olive
2S – Sésame
By 2007; return in 2021
Description: Pale beige with golden warmth
Leathers:
Clemence, Epsom, Swift, Canvas
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Beige gold
Complements: Warm-neutral
U8 – Bronze D’Or
early 2010s
Description: Deep bronze, richer than gold
Leathers:
Togo, Madame
Skintone Compatibility:
Tone: Warm-neutral
Undertone: Bronze brown
Complements: Warm or olive
Undertone Guide (Cool / Warm / Neutral)
Identify your skin undertone.
Cool Undertones
- Skin has pink or red undertones
- Burns easily in the sun
- Veins on wrist appear blue or purple
- Silver jewelry looks best
Warm Undertones
- Skin has golden or yellow undertones
- Tans easily in the sun
- Veins on wrist appear green
- Gold jewelry looks best
Neutral Undertones
- A balanced mix of cool and warm
- Can tan and/or burn easily in the sun
- Veins on wrist are a mix of blue and green
- Both silver and gold jewelry look great
Disclaimer
The leather and color information provided in this guide is based on our personal observations and research from reputable sources. While we make every effort to ensure accuracy, this guide is intended for reference only. Variations may occur due to differences in leather types, dye batches, and lighting conditions. We cannot be held liable for any discrepancies or misinterpretations.
While we include general notes on color warmth (warm, cool, or neutral), any connections to personal undertones or skin tone compatibility are subjective and meant only as informal guidance. Color appearance may vary depending on lighting, leather type, and age.
